When filing in a lathe, don’t hold the file rigid, but use a slight gliding motion. This will help the file clear itself and also prevent ridges. When filing metal, vary the speed according to metal. Generally use 150 surface feet per minute for cast iron; 175 for annealed tool steel; 350 for machinery steel, and 500 for soft yellow brass. Also, don’t run your hand over the work. Resulting oil and moisture will make it harder for the file to take hold.
To keep your retracting tape measure working smoothly wipe the metal blade with a small dab of car wax, then wipe with a clean cloth. This will help protect the blade’s finish and keep it retracting smoothly.
Be sure to frequently check the air filters on your tools. Clogged filters can choke an engine and many filters can be cleaned and reused.
Ratchets have a square shaft that holds the socket. The size of this shaft determines the drive size. Heavy-duty automotive work generally requires the strength of a 1/2-in. drive tool which has a longer, thicker handle to provide maximum leverage. A 3/8-in. ratchet is a good all-round size. 1/4-in. ratchets are smaller and ideal for lighter tasks in tighter work areas. Drive adaptors are available that convert sockets from one drive size to another. You should avoid using a small socket on a 1/2-in. drive ratchet, because the excess torque can damage the smaller tool.
It seems that for some jobs, you need three hands to get it done. Your pliers can lend you that extra hand. Use the pliers to grip the wire or small piece you need to have held. Then wrap a rubber band around the handles to maintain the grip while you complete the work.
Need to replace your trusty old level? You can check it for accuracy. Lay one working edge on a flat surface and check the bubble. Swap it end for end, then check the bubble again. It should be in the same position. Now try the opposite working edge. Take a reading, switch end for end, and take another reading. The bubble should be in the same position. Likewise check for plumb by holding it against a flat vertical surface.
If you need to cut a bolt to proper length, first thread the nut on, past the cut mark. After cutting, file- off sharp edges, then back the nut off to clean up the threads. To clean up rusted or damaged threads on a bolt you want to salvage, cut a slot through the side of the right-size nut. Clamp the nut halfway into a vise with the slot down, then run the bolt into the nut. For more cleaning action, tighten up the vise on the nut.
If you plan to refurbish a major shop tool or other equipment, take some photos before you start. They possibly can save you some head-scratching during the reassembly process. Take pictures from a number of angles, and take close-ups of areas where you think you might have some questions later. The more complex the machine, the more photos you should take.
If vibration causes nuts to constantly work loose, first add a lock washer, if it doesn’t have one. Or, if there is room on the bolt, use two nuts, tightened toward each other so they lock solidly. You can also try wrapping monofilament fishing line under the nut before tightening it on the bolt. Another possibility is to try wrapping the threads first with the teflon tape that is used in plumbing.
On jobs where you don’t want to be held up, like felling trees away from home, consider having two chainsaws available. Make sure both are in working order before starting. Then if one needs its chain sharpened, you can use the second one to finish the job. By using two saws any maintenance can be done between, rather than during, the project. Also consider doubling up on other small tools, like pliers and screwdrivers, so they can be kept in different areas to cut down on running from house to garage.
